Recess shade with Army Painter Soft Tone ( GW Seraphim Sepia is a bit too yellow for this though, so you may want to mix it with a bit of Agrax Earthshade) http://www.wargamesfoundry.com - also do a range of similar to Citadel paints, will update when can get chance. I tried to paint them in smallest chips as much as possible by using very fine paint brush. Keep in mind that a small size and randomness make it looks more natural, and try not to overdo it.This process takes time and patience to finish but the result will be worth in the end.

Final touches before the base. Adding a white transfer to the dome, which I then paint around to make sure it’s more seamlessly integrated with the model. Overall I’m really happy with how this turned out – the blue and yellow are very striking and it wasn’t nearly as much of a pain to paint the yellow armor as I originally feared it would be. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Sure, as I’ve mentioned, normally yellow paint is difficult to work with because your first coat doesn’t do the job of providing good coverage. Yriel was born on Iyanden, but his bloodline is not purely Iyanden, and he is also the bastard descendant of the House of Ulthanash. Other than his unpure bloodline, Yriel is often considered to be greatly flawed for his sin of pride. [1] Hive Fleet Naga My tip here would be to apply your next coat of contrast color with a small pointed round brush (like a #0 or #1 size) that has stiff bristles. This will give you more control in smaller places on your model. Sure, you won’t cover as much surface area in a single application, but you’ll reduce the risk of making a mistake paint somewhere you don’t want to.Citadel Colour’s Yriel Yellow is a high-quality acrylic paint that is perfect for miniature painting. The base coat is a bright, lemon-yellow that provides excellent coverage and a matt finish. The pigments used in the paint are carefully selected to create a vibrant and dynamic color that will make your miniatures stand out. Yriel Yellow is a great foundation colour for any beginner’s palette, providing a solid base for layering and highlighting, it can be used as an alternative to Flash Gitz Yellow. What Xenos Armies to paint with Yriel Yellow

GW's new range matches with the old range are the matches claimed by GW. However, many of the paints do not match very closely at all and some mixing will be required to get close to the original colours. If you are trying to match old GW with new GW, you'd be better just getting Vallejo game color or coat d'arms for the closest match ) I prime my minis with Games Workshop's Corax White, but you could use a different brand. Be wary of Rustoleum and Krylon, I've had mixed results. Sometimes the chemicals in the spray react to the plastic of the mini. The warm tone of the creamy ivory worked nicely to blend my yellow highlights with the rest of the model. The T’au Empire: The T’au Empire is a faction of xenos known for their advanced technology and use of drones. Yriel Yellow can be used to paint the drones and machinery of the T’au, as well as the energy fields that surround their weapons. This color can also be used to create a color scheme that mimics the color of the T’au’s battlesuit. coat d'arms match the OLD citadel colours so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference,

P3 Paints did not really match very closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html Optional) This step is difficult to explain but basically, I shade the model using VMC Goldbrown. I do a mix of glazing, and recess shading and in some places straight layering. VMC Goldbrown is an ever so slightly darker but less opaque version of VGC Heavy Goldbrown so doing this results in a much less flat model. When you dry brush, this an opportunity to highlight surfaces. By adding more yellow on top of those raised surfaces, you are adding contrast. The recesses remain dark with a good dry brush. This dichotomy between light and dark adds to the overall “pop” of the model.

And, then you’ll still have to figure out how to shade your yellow base coat once you’ve airbrushed it on your model. Problems, problems… Glazing with an airbrush helps blend color. This even works well with…Yellow. The Figurementors Magazine: Fantasy Edition – Ever since we made the jump and created The Illustrated Historical Artist there has been overwhelming support and demand for a magazine of the same quality writing and design, showcasing all that is wonderful in the Fantasy genre. As of October 1st, we will be bringing you a bimonthly issue of The Illustrated Fantasy Artist! We already have content lined up for the first four issues and we are really excited about delivering for you a product unsurpassed within our niche market! We have informative and inspiring articles by Alfonso Giraldes, Joaquin Palacios, Arnau Lazaro, Dmitry Fesechko, Camelson, Francesco Farabi and others written by the up and coming generation of painters such as Kristian Simonsen, Chris Suhre, Paolo Di Poce and so many more besides. This promises to be the magazine that all fantasy figure painters have been crying out for. Stay tuned! Realise your dreams with The Illustrated Fantasy Artist, out soon!

Blue

When I first met Porter, he was carrying powder for a regiment of Empire Handgunners. Knowing that gunpowder and monkeys are a disaster waiting to happen, I sent him off to the Talabheim Tappers, a local Free Company Militia regiment where he could be safe and oh god he’s GOT A KNIFE Those hazard stripes are not entirely straight. They’re freehanded, and you can see if you look closely that they are neither parallel nor evenly spaced. That’s fine, actually, because the miniature has so much visual confusion from the heavy weathering that the lines are broken and your mind barely notices it. The transfers are especially essential to this formulae – they provide such pops of visual interest that they command the eye to focus on them and not the imperfections on the hazard stripes. This bonded pair of Squigs found their way into my home when I got a box of Zarbaj’s Jitz with my Adepticon swag bag last year. The two have been inseparable since I adopted them, only leaving each other’s side to maul whatever poor fool decided to get too close to their territory. My paintscheme for Zarbaj and his Jitz involves a lot of purple and yellow, so I forewent the typical reds and oranges you see Squigs come in, and went instead for a pinkish purple. I think it’s pretty fashionable. On the other hand, if you’re a hardcore wargamer where painting is a secondary priority for you, then maybe you don’t mind missing a few things in the paint job.

In the closing days of the 41st Millennium, Iyanden was again invaded. This time, Space Hulks carrying the Daemonic legions of Gara’gugul’gor threatened the Craftworld. Iyanden was only saved thanks to the effort of Yriel and the newly arrived Ynnari. In the final stages of the battle, Yriel used the Spear of Twilight to destroy Gara’gugul’gor and his Space Hulk at the cost of his own life. However, shortly afterward his corpse was recovered and resurrected by Yvraine, who revealed that the Spear of Twilight was one of the lost Crone Swords. Much of the life stolen from him by the Spear has been returned, but his death has still only been forestalled. [7] Wargear Not everyone has an airbrush or wants to get one. They are a tool that can’t replace the feeling and control that a regular brush paint job can achieve (see why an airbrush is never going to be as cool or exciting as painting with a regular brush). No need to worry about your first color spilling into another area of a model. Simply cover your model in a coat of paint as evenly and smoothly as possible. I used the highlight colour from previous step and painted on the lower edge of some chips and scratches to simulate depth. Khorne Red: Khorne Red is a deep, rich red color that can be used to create a split-complementary color scheme with Yriel Yellow. This color can be used to create a sense of movement and energy on the miniature, as well as to break the monotony of the yellow.Final edge highlights step. The gun gets some edging with Mechanicus Standard Grey. The tabard gets an edge highlight of Altdorf Guard blue. For most hobby painters, adding decals is challenging and not worth the effort. But, if you want to go that extra mile, then decals can add that extra level of realism or immersion.